As if Mecca weren't already glamorous enough, with its sweeping, deep burgundy curtains, rotunda-underground feel, minimalist clubby soundtrack, and hot Castro location, they went and got themselves Cameron Diaz's chef. Stephen Barber, fresh out of Bambu in Miami, crafts a foie gras and spiced, caramelized pear ($19) that would make your toes curl, a warm dungeness crab salad with vanilla Maltaise ($14) that should never end, and the most formidable vegetarian linguine ever, with Hen-of-the-Woods mushrooms and Bloomesdale spinach ($15). Our server, the management, and the silvery tall candlesticks made us feel fancy as fancy gets, without that nagging Nob Hillery gloom and doom, and the chummy Mojito ($8) and sugar-rimmed Ima Gimlet ($8) made a luverly intro to owners Emmanuel and Gene's excellent wine list.